An Evening in Singapore

The descent into Singapore was protracted. The airport was so busy that we had to wait in order to land.  Since we had last visited, they had built another terminal and the taxi driver who took us to our hotel told us that Terminal 5 was planned. Singapore is a popular stopover.
A prosperous, polite, island city-state, it has quite a few rules that become apparent to visitors. This helps to make a clean, safe environment. Before you arrive you have to fill out an arrival card. You are warned that bringing drugs into Singapore carries the death penalty. The form itself is a pain when you have been on an aeroplane for over 10 hours. Among other things you have to find your passport number, flight number and fill out your address twice, making sure you get everything right.

When you travel around Singapore, other rules make themselves apparent and it becomes obvious why the city is so clean. A $500 fine for eating or drinking on the MRT (the underground transport system) which also bans durians (a fruit) for some reason. In certain places you cannot smoke without risking a $1000 fine. And yet, our standards of personal safety do not match up with those of Singapore, for example: workers sit in the back of open trucks as they travel along the roads.

Having just two nights here - one full day - we had to get a move on. As soon as we had dropped our bags in our rooms we made for Little India. A ten-minute walk to Novena MRT Station, got our tickets, onto the train, a change from one line to another and a bustling world of colour and noise hit our senses. Cyclists swarmed past us, also buses, coaches, cars, as we queued to cross the road. Stallholders were getting their wares in, it was about 8 pm. Many of them sold bright, multi-coloured garlands for a few dollars. In contrast were jewellery shops, sometimes three in a row selling masses of gold, and they had customers in! What a wealthy place, such an abundance of products for sale.

Komala Vilas is an Indian vegetarian restaurant we knew in this area. Joe sussed out its whereabouts using the 'Handy Smartphone' from the Ibis hotel - amazingly, a phone for personal use, with free international calls that could be made with it to a selection of countries including our own. We were soon making our way through the tables at the restaurant, arousing some stares, being the only customers who were not local. 
The waiter showed us to a table with two men and a family. People were busy eating without cutlery, scooping up a variety of dips and chutneys with dosai pancakes. Soon we were doing the same. Some of the curries and pickles were eye-watering. My nose was starting to run and my tongue verging on going numb with the strength of the spices but I was determined to finish it. You get huge portions for a cheap price. Freya and I shared a chappathi and poppadom dish that came served on a banana leaf. There was even a kind of pudding - a little sweet dish of tapioca with noodles and cashew nuts in. Joe had onion uthappam. Sweet tea and coffee followed.
I was in long trousers and although it was fairly 'cool' that evening (maybe 27 degrees) as they had had recent rain, I was feeling it on the walk back to the hotel, trying to keep up with Joe and Freya. As soon as I got into the room, I ripped my trousers off and literally collapsed on the floor for a few minutes, before heading straight for the shower.
 

A Word on Christchurch

I'm backtracking a bit here. The day before the wedding was kind of frantic. Henry had to be in the centre of Christchurch by 9.15 am as he had an appointment at the barbers. Freya and I had an appointment later for a shape and polish of our nails. I had never had a manicure before and Henry had never had a shave at a barbers. Two new experiences - we are not normally the kind of people to go in for this sort of thing but there was a special occasion coming up.

However, parking in Christchurch was a nightmare. When we visited in 2003/2004 we parked by the Botanic Gardens at Hagley Park, where our kids enjoyed the open air pool. The satnav didn't seem to help as Henry missed a couple of turnings and we ended up with a nail-biting finish with on-street parking by a dead-end where construction was going on. Henry raced to the barbers, slightly late. Dare I say it, it was a close shave (sorry!).

Christchurch was like a building site, following the 2011 earthquake. There were cranes everywhere, half-finished buildings, construction noise … and the cathedral! Cathedral Square was unrecognizable. We struggled to get our bearings. The cathedral itself looked like it had been bombed. Half of it remained, the spire in a separate place. There is a temporary Cardboard Cathedral for worship somewhere in the city, (we didn't see it) but it looked as if they were unsure whether to re-build the old one. Was it too much of a risk? Maybe it is just time-consuming.

Saddened, we left. We also had to take the motorhome back to Britz (got lost!) and things were a bit stressful. We thought we could take leftover food back to the depot for other people to use (we had acquired some at Auckland) but there was no area for it here. They wanted you to buy it instead! 
The Omega car rental was right next to the motorhome depot and Henry went to pick up the car.

We were in a car now! A Mazda Premacy that had the indicators and wiper controls round the wrong way for Henry, who kept putting the wipers on! Definitely not needed as the day was a scorcher.

We made it to Akaroa just before sunset, viewing it from the balcony that was off a room Freya immediately decided was hers at the bed and breakfast venue. Henry and I had a downstairs room and our en suite had a spa bath. There were flowers in every single room, even the bathrooms - white lilies, yellow gladioli, and some I didn't recognize. We had bought a few flowers from Christchurch but our host said we could help ourselves to some from the garden, so we went round choosing roses and ferns and adding them to the bouquet I made. Henry made boutonnieres for himself and Joe.
After ironing our clothes we were all set for the next day...

A Surprise Finale

In Akaroa on the Banks Peninsula this morning, a bellbird serenaded me as I walked towards Henry to say my vows. After 28 years of living together, bringing up two children, travelling in New Zealand, we had returned to the country that won our hearts ... and got married!
We are an eccentric family who do things backwards, let's be honest. Raise children to adulthood then get married, go to the other side of the world to tie the knot, have a wedding in the morning, outside in a garden, with an eclectic mix of traditions, poems, songs and readings. Four New Zealand women made our day: Phillipa, our lovely celebrant, Ali, the owner of our venue, FyrneBrooke House, Denise who did make-up and Raquel, the photographer. 
When we arrived at the bed and breakfast house, after greeting us, Ali told us something like: 'We don't do stress here, we just work it out.' I thought, that's something I need to remember! 
Who could be stressed here? The tranquil garden had a brook running through it, crossed by a little bridge, and had so many places to sit, surrounded by an abundance of greenery and flowers, there just wasn't time for us to take advantage of it all. But we were spoilt, and we loved it. The house was beautiful too, with flowers in every room.
Phillipa had worked hard on crafting the words of our wedding ceremony, liaising with us from a distance (not a problem in this day and age), until it was all perfect. We had some traditional vows, but the ceremony also included a handfasting  - the cord made by Henry from ribbons. Joe read a poem from Winnie the Pooh and Phillipa came up with a Tolkien quote to finish with. We signed the register while our chosen song 'We are Stars' by The Pierces, played in the background.
After that, we were served a breakfast of eggs Benedict and other local delicacies - with honey from our host's own bees. We had also brought our own Champagne - that was a first at this time of day!
Raquel took us around Akaroa then, to get some amazing views. 
An unforgettable day!
 

Mount Cook

The race was on, Mount Cook beckoned as the last destination on our itinerary. The drive was fairly good, and we arrived at Twizel in time for lunch. Joe had taken over the cooking on this trip and quickly produced a pasta meal that was enough for six people. We had to use our food up at this stage. It was hot and sunny in Twizel but the forecast for Mount Cook Village looked dodgy. 
As we set off, clouds were gathering and when we got to 'Peters Lookout' (a spot extremely popular with photographers as it overlooks the impossibly turquoise-blue Lake Pukaki with Mount Cook as the distant focal point) Mount Cook was covered in cloud!
The drive was long enough for Aoraki/Mount Cook, known as the Cloud Piercer, to live up to its name. Little by little, New Zealand's highest mountain almost revealed itself. 
The Blue Lakes Car Park is a good place to aim for with a range of walks. We had spent some time there on our previous visit so were prepared. However, it seemed we had forgotten (or does 14 years passing by in your forties/fifties really tell on you?) just how steep the climb is to view the Tasman Glacier. To be precise, 314 steps. Steep ones at that. At the top, you could see the grey terminal lake, and the glacial moraine. We could see some some icebergs in the lake.
The Blue Lakes is a misnomer. The lakes are no longer glacial-fed and therefore have turned green due to being full of rainwater. The views of the valley below, though, are fantastic.
Travelling back, Henry was full of gritty determination and was not best pleased when I insisted he pull over for a photograph of Mount Cook and Lake Pukaki. 

He parked up and I leapt out, Joe joining me, also a keen photographer. We looked at each other and had the same thought. 'Why don't we stay here for the night?' It was a beautiful, capacious picnic area, where another camper had parked right by lake. By now, Mount Cook stood at the head of the lake with a perfect, crisp outline, the sun low in the sky, due to set soon.
So this was our camp spot. We parked not far from pine trees, walking through them to the beach, cones and needles on the ground the colour of bronze and the sweet smell of pine on the breeze. The wine came out, our camping chairs too, and we sat down on the stony beach to watch the sunset. A bride came down at one point for photos. This was a prime spot and we felt so lucky.

Not so lucky in the night. The spot we had parked on was at the bottom of a stony slope and the rain hammered down as we tried to sleep. We had aimed for a five o'clock start but this was suddenly brought forward to four o'clock as Henry was worried about getting us out. We made it. We were on the road to Christchurch.

Pengwinds

Some crazy days... we travelled from one side of New Zealand to the other in a day, from Fiordland to near Dunedin. The countryside became flat farming land filled with alpacas and sheep. The grass was golden and patchy and the mountains were warmed by the setting sun. Henry drove on. Then I took over. The worst thing was having to periodically stop for drivers to pass. It was dark, the roads winding and getting hilly. We reached Gabriel's Gully, an old gold mining valley at around 9 pm. There was a caravan in the DOC picnic area. We got out and stared at the sky, crowded with stars, the white band of the Milky Way clearly visible.

Dunedin blew us off our feet. Truly scary driving a large motorhome in a gale. Still, once parked (and free as it was a Sunday), we had a more relaxed time round the Otago Settlers Museum, admiring the Flemish renaissance-style railway station - from which tourist trains run - and visiting the art gallery. To bring it down to earth, we ate lunch in Subway, which suited our budget. 
The reason the pace was slackened was not just passing time in the hope that the wind would drop, but we aimed to see yellow-eyed penguins just up the road near Moeraki. This had to be timed with when they came ashore in early evening. Then it became a bit of a dash. Having to stop for more food (two young people in the family) put us back. We got to the holiday park at Moeraki and the friendly owner came out from the back in his socks. After booking us in, he asked if we wanted anything else. ‘Yes’, we said. 'Penguins?' he volunteered, and got out a map, drawing a line to show our route and telling us we had to go straight away.

He was right of course. After a ten-minute drive, half of it on a gravel road, we arrived to see people leaving the Moeraki Lighthouse nature reserve and thought the show was over. The reserve closed at 5.30 pm so we had less than an hour. However, we were in luck. I spotted a penguin! Then another couple, who had come ashore onto a grassy outcrop. They sheltered in amongst the bushes but came out to give photo opportunities. New Zealand Fur Seals were everywhere, in fact we could not go past a certain point as they lay across the path - about twenty of them. They were adorable, but not animals we wanted to get close to. Satisfied, we returned to camp.

Back at the holiday park we were next to a chap who had a self-built motorhome, which he had had since the late 1970s. He and his wife had been all over New Zealand in it. 
The tide was in and the light gone anyway, so we had to wait till next morning to see the Moeraki Boulders.

It was busy on the beach first thing, being by a hotel. The challenge was to take a photo without people in. They were posing on the smooth, spherical boulders that look like dragon's eggs. 
Off again, still in the gale, up the coast, we headed for Mount Cook, an almost impossible task that would involve three more hours of driving, then four hours to get back to Christchurch, where we had to be by the following morning...

Milford Sound

You wouldn't be able to believe your luck - two days of perfect sunshine in a row, for our cruises. I was in seventh heaven on the Milford Sound cruise. I had to keep reminding myself that I was here, doing this, having this wonderful experience. Up on deck nearly all the time, in the wind and the sun, looking at these steeply rising,  glorious mountains, a flawless blue sky, blue waters, waterfalls like white streaks on the mountains from afar.
Because last time we did the cruise it was in the rain. I'm glad this was the one Freya would remember.

The cruises seem to be about a third to half-full of people in autumn, even so there was only just enough room for taking photos if you wanted a good vantage point sometimes.
The queue to get on the boat had a ridiculously panicky feel to it! A crowd of Chinese women pushed in from the left and the crew members got quite irritated telling us all to move back to one side. The gates opened and there was a barely controlled mini stampede. In contrast, once we were on, people quickly dispersed. Oddly enough, many of them to the restaurant, from which smells like well-cooked sausages and vegetables drifted about throughout the journey. It was not a place I would want to waste my time in. I wanted to be out in the fresh air, taking in every moment. 

But first, to take advantage of complementary hot drinks, we sat inside,  next to a woman and her daughter with whom we struck up an instant friendship. They hailed from Australia and were on a three-day  visit to New Zealand, staying in Queenstown. They had been to Glenorchy too. 
Up on deck, excitable keen photographers jostled for the best position when dolphins were spotted. Our boat approached them carefully and they leapt out of the water and came close to us. This 'Scenic Cruise' took us right out to sea then turned around. It was an hour and a half long and quite sufficient to see everything. The longer and more expensive 'Nature Cruise' was not really worth it for our family of four. We were over the moon with our trip. We could not have asked for more. Milford Sound deserves the title of Eighth Wonder of the World. 

Of course, the Milford Road is a wonder in itself. Taking about two hours to drive down, it is fairy flat to start with. You pass Te Anau Downs, a big picnic area, then continue through landscapes of scrub, tussock grassland, beech forest, a rash of DOC campsites - we stayed at Kiosk Creek, a nice little area which we shared with two motorhomes and two tents - then the road becomes more winding, up and down, passing parking areas with view points. 

Interesting features of our journey: a bride in a white dress, being photographed against a backdrop of snowy mountains, the Homer Tunnel, where you wait by traffic lights that count down the time you have to wait for the single-lane drive through this roughly hewn tunnel that was built (over 20 years from the 1930s) with picks, shovels and dynamite. By now it had lights in the roof, not there 14 years ago. We also had a chance to see some kea - the only Alpine parrot - along the Milford Road, at very close quarters. Signs request that you don't feed the birds, but people do, we witnessed a group throwing half a banana to them. We stopped at The Chasm, a walk to view the surging River Cleddau and waterfall rushing under a bridge. The water had carved out solid rock, scoured holes in it and polished it all smooth.

Of course you get to see the scenery again on the way back as Milford is at the end of the road. And it is worth seeing twice.

New Zealand's Heart

"That's the life!" said a stranger passing in his truck as he observed us sunbathing outside our motorhome. "Enjoying the Fiordland sunshine. Where are you from?" As usual we struck up a conversation with a friendly New Zealander. Henry and I had just completed a lovely walk on the Kepler Track: one of the Great Walks where it is possible to enjoy a few hours tramping in stunning countryside.

From Rainbow Reach Car Park, cross the swing bridge and then the path starts to climb up through forest until there is a choice of destinations. Shallow Bay was our aim, providing a good variety of scenery.
The track follows the river, but from a height so you only get the chance to see it from viewpoints. Tomtits fly in front of you, huge ferns grace the path and mossy tendrils hang down from the trees.

It only took us just over an hour to reach Shallow Bay. Leaving at 9.30 am, we met three people near the start then no one for nearly an hour. Overall, we counted about fifty people there and back, nicely spread out and cheerfully greeting us, as you do when walking in such a beautiful place. Shallow Bay exceeded my expectations. It was awesome. No amount of time would be enough on such a beach. Lake Manapouri set off by several mountain ranges including the Kepler Mountains of course. At this time of year they were snow-capped and took your breath away. I stood and looked, and absorbed as much as I could. Just Henry and I here alone in peace.
Meanwhile, Joe and Freya were off on a Doubtful Sound cruise with Real Journeys. We had all done this trip when we last visited New Zealand but it is pretty expensive when you multiply it by four so this was our solution. Great to pack them off now they are adults! 
Starting from Pearl Harbour, Manapouri at 8 am, it returns at around 2.30 pm. The trip takes you over Lake Manapouri, then by coach across Wilmott Pass, then another cruise through Doubtful Sound. The day began with mists lingering over the lake - it had been a frosty start - and became sunny, though still cold. You could not wear a hat though unless you wanted to lose it as someone did. Joe said the guides were excellent and entertaining. 
Sometimes you can see dolphins on this trip but sadly none were seen this time. There was, however, a brief view of some little blue penguins.
I lost my heart to this magnificent part of the country, as we all did when we came here before. This is the image of New Zealand, where to go if you are a photographer, the area you just cannot miss. It is as 'New Zealand' as it gets. To me, this is the heart of New Zealand.

A Morris Minor Graveyard

Arrowtown had become more twee, a place for hipsters and people with plenty of money. It was fairly crowded with us tourists at 9.30 am. In our memories it was a gentle, slow-paced, sleepy town where we spent several overnight stays in the centre, visited the free museum (now $10 per person), panned for gold in the Arrow River, went to the outdoor swimming pool and played mini golf, soaking in the leisurely atmosphere. 

This time we stayed at the holiday park where they packed us in next to each other, filling up the numbered spaces chronologically instead of letting us spread out over the half-empty site.
In the morning we ambled around the town, trying to reclaim that feeling from years ago. Arrowtown is famous for its autumn tints so this was a good time of year to visit, though a little later wouldn't hurt, as not all the trees had changed colour. Buckingham Street is home to a charming row of miners' cottages. At least the Chinese settlement had not been 'improved' and there was no charge for entry.

A few hours' drive took us down to Te Anau and finally Manapouri for the night where we discovered an eccentric holiday park. This was the New Zealand we were familiar with, the country that attracts people with a zany sense of humour and a love of collecting things, especially elderly vehicles. Most were no longer roadworthy but a few had been running quite recently. Unfortunately someone's collection was now a car graveyard.

Morris Minors occupied pride of place: a cheeky little row of them, like naughty children in permanent detention. Rusty trucks, a tractor, Austins, Triumphs, Hillman Imps. Later we found a barn sheltering more Morris Minors: split screen, rare - from the early 1950s perhaps in the case of a few - and a police Morris Minor. I am actually an ex-Morris Minor owner. Mine broke down on me eight times in the few years I had it.

We loved this holiday park. It was immaculate. Antiquated in the case of the kitchen and TV room, but so homely. And the showers were free for seven minutes. Around us were quaint buildings where people stayed, tiny houses, and cabins that had their own gardens full of vegetables. All with a stunning view of Lake Manapouri.

Overnight Staying

I just don't get this. Since the 2011 bylaw (brought about by lobbying holiday park owners and disrespectful and noisy freedom campers) there are now town zones where overnight parking is prohibited. In theory you just drive outside the restricted area to park. But we found in the Tasman District Council area, laybys in such places with 'No Overnight Staying' on them outside the restricted zone as seen from the map. Then when we reached Marahau at 8 am, the DOC car park at the start of the Abel Tasman Track was full of campers who had clearly been there overnight. Within the restricted zone.

So far on this trip we have stayed overnight in a hotel, two laybys, a Department of Conservation Regional Park, a car park in Wellington city centre and Marahau Beach Camp.
For the latter we paid $70 and got electrical hook-up, showers $1 for five minutes, washing machine use for $3 and the same for dryers. No need for detergent in the washing machines as the sign told us it was added 'auto-magically' The washing machines also disliked 'tramping boots, tents, other heavy gear and country music'. Camp site owners with a sense of humour catering for people in colourful campervans, motorhomes, car drivers with tents, those walking the track, kayaking or taking a water taxi. There was also a shop selling essentials and of course a dump station and fresh water. Things you miss while freedom camping. Not to mention the WiFi at $5 for 24 hours. I've paid a lot more. All in all, a lovely stay at Marahau Beach Camp.

The Rankers app has an interactive offline map so you can check out camping spots (free and paid) which is useful but some of the reviews are years old and in the case of the lakeside parking area in Rotorua that we had to abandon, there are only three designated motorhome parking spaces and although a review a year ago stated that up to ten had parked without trouble, that was not the case for us as security moved us on. There also appeared to be a number of reviews that did not apply to the sites that we stayed on.
Our motorhome has a blue self-containment sticker which means it can be parked on these freedom camping sites. 

When you reach Wanaka, there is a huge information board warning you about where you can't stay overnight. Basically, anywhere within the town/residential area. It is a 'No Freedom Camping Zone'. If you are caught (a high chance, judging by Rankers reviews) you will be fined $200. I thought this was per vehicle but a sign in Manapouri informed us it was PER PERSON. Ouch! They really don't want you here. Which, on the one hand is understandable. Residents shouldn't be disturbed. People should not leave evidence of their stay. But they do, and the sheer numbers that visit New Zealand put pressure on the country with these resuts. Or is it the locals? I hate to say it, but we have been told by New Zealanders that it is them who are causing trouble too.

When we came here 14 years ago, there was a large community of travellers in buses, house trucks, groups of RV enthusiasts, vintage vehice clubs... where are they all staying overnight? Obviously not in the town areas but as we noticed, there are some no 'camping signs' in laybys well outside the towns. 

Motorhome Matters

Driving
I didn't think I would drive our rented motorhome as we are short of time for me to get used to it on this trip. I drove our Mitsubishi Canter 14 years ago, also a rented motorhome in Australia but this beast is six berth, 7.7 m long and 3.3 m high)  and although it is the same make as the van Henry drives 50,000 miles a year in, it is wider and longer and it's automatic. Even he struggled at first, fishing around for gears that weren't there and putting his foot on the brake thinking it was the clutch causing sudden, alarming stops  - that's when you discover what isn't secured properly.

So be warned even if you are an experienced driver. A previous driver of our Britz motorhome had had a scrape that caused damage all the way down the side of the vehicle in various places. Awareness of the height and width is important when negotiating overhanging branches for example.

On the Air New Zealand flight there was a useful video called Drive Safe. They are right to point out that the roads can be winding and you need to allow plenty of time. This is hard to do as there is so much to see and it is spread out across the country. Better to allow three to four weeks on the South Island if you have the time/money. Better to have two drivers as well.
So far I have driven the vehicle three times and found it easier than expected. That said, I was being cautious. Things do bounce about quite a bit too, which seems to be normal. 

Interior
This six-berth beast may seem big but all motorhomes have their faults and on the interior the space between the 'kitchen' area and the washroom/rear seating area is tight, which can be very irritating when people want to pass. I can't imagine six adults in here. Adults and children maybe.

Henry had a complaint about the lack of Bluetooth connectivity through the radio. He needed it when he was driving as all motorhomes make a din when on the road and it would have relieved the boredom on a long journey. The radio was a very basic AM/FM radio with a lack of reception too. He also found a lack of arm rest a bit irritating.

You can charge your phone in one USB port and there is a 12v socket in the cab which you can plug an inverter into. The plugholes do not work unless you are plugged into electrical hookup though.
You are advised not to bring hard suitcases, just fold-up bags to put under the seats. We brought a couple of small hard bags which we have been able to stow in the alcove sleeping area as it is capacious. In fact, the bedding and towels (all brown in colour) get stored up here in the daytime. Freya commented that she was acting like a dung beetle as she pushed her duvet up there this morning.

After a week. we had a problem with the kitchen tap in our motorhome. When we put the pump on, water came out of the tap even when it was turned off.
It was handy that we were in Queenstown as there is a depot there. One of only a handful on both islands. However, they couldn't get hold of another tap quickly enough. They had a go at fixing it which improved things but the system was still making a noise like a badly played didgeridoo. There also was an airlock we never even mentioned, that caused water to come up both sinks and be very slow to drain from the tiny washroom one. 
So it was a pleasant surprise when Britz said they would give us money back on our credit
card for the cost of a few holiday parks. Much needed if you are struggling to use your water.